Miele Electric Wand – gets clogged and sucks

A few years back Miele updated their vacuum cleaner line to include an “electric wand”. This means that the power cord for the vacuum head was run through the “wand” instead of outside it. The advantage is that it is now easy to unplug and change head attachments. The disadvantage is that crap now gets stuck inside the vacuum tube, which is a major design flaw. In order to allow the length of the tube to change, they used a coiled cord inside. This is similar to old expanding phone cords you might remember – you’d also remember how easy those were to get tangled and catch on things. In this case, it catches on random crap and plugs up the hole.

I often don’t notice it is plugged for a while – you’d think it would be obvious, but it isn’t. So you can vacuum a room or two before you notice just how messed up it is.

Macs are so easy to use!

Because this stupid Epson printer thing couldn’t get any more difficult, of course it is. I tried to print to the printer via a mac book pro, and found out the drivers are only for the very latest OS, which JUST RELEASED LIKE 10 days ago. OF course I didn’t realize this right away… nah, I was like,

“Sure, I’ll upgrade from 10.10 to 10.13 because it’s a mac and that doesn’t even sound like a major upgrade amirite? Fuck no, I’m not right.KERNAL PANIC 

Fuck yeah. So installing new printer drivers turned into 2 days of fucking around trying to resolve this piece of shit problem.

Oh and fuck wordpress because I don’t know why it keeps rotating this fucking image.

I’m clearly having some sort of technology breakdown going on in my life. Is this a sign of spiritual sickness? Did I not make the proper sacrifices to Vulcan?

 

Epson 640XP crap wireless set up

Epson software can’t find the fucking printer on my network. I can clearly see it on the network via router software, and I have literally connected to it via IP. I can print from it now. But the Epson software, and WIN10 says they can’t find the printer via printer software. How the fuck can you make a printer that struggles with wifi in 2017. It blew me away too – I saw all kinds of complaints about cannon printers having issues… wtf guys.

RE256 Part II: The Searching Continues

Continued from Part 1

SCANLINES

Modern monitors have a much higher refresh rate than in the old days, by a factor of 10. What I needed was something that could handle 15hz ( or so – I didn’t know the exact refresh rate, since technical manuals are hard to find ). This is where I found a bunch of useful information from people who are into retrogames. If you are REALLY into old games like streetfighter for your NES you don’t roll with some shitty “modern” LCD/LED screen. You go oldschool CRT, where the scanlines are the luxurious background texture of your nostaglia fix.

edit: WTF happened to my re256 links! Maybe I deleted them all in a rage fit or something, but man. I’m really missing that folder right now

OK, so I basically need a 80s era monitor, or one of the specialized NEC Multisync monitors. ( cool, now I know why it said Multisync on the side of my monitors all those years ago ). I’m also competing with people who want to run their old AppleII and need a monitor. Some of those old CRTs are literally selling for $500+ on ebay.

Now, the time is ticking on my ability to return this thing… so I need to know if it even works beyond powering on. I hook up my oscilloscope hoping I can see something useful.

 

I don’t know why, but I was sort of hoping the CRT would just.. magically work and I’d see text. (It isn’t that easy… you can watch this video if interested in converting your oscope to a monitor..) Instead I get this. This is encouraging, since that looks like a waveform – though I have no idea wtf it means. However, the top looks like a TTL signal ( I think? )


and the rest seems like a composite video signal.

Not sure what to make of it… but at least the RE256 is putting out something on the video channel.

Well – shopping / hunting for old computer shit is my idea of fun, so I’m going to put this on slow burn and wait for a monitor to show up.

HOW TO USE THE RE256

So I’ve realized at this point that using this block of metal is going to be a challenge. The more I know about it, the better I can fix it, and how fucked up is that I’m trying to fix a piece of gear that I know next to nothing about, so I can then maybe learn how to use it. Why not just dump it? I wish I knew, and I wish I had. But at this point I have a fantasy in my head of fixing this, and having this awesome distortion analyzer and I’m like already a “RADIOMETER ELECTRONICS” fanboy. They are my BRAND motherfucker.

I’m hurting to recount this because I am missing a folder of 20+ solid links, including discussion of these products on audioforums. But one of the terrifying things I came across was this review of the 201 Audio Analyzer. I take that back there are several terrifying things going on here:

  • IEEE controlled interface, using a custom piece of hardware. RE901 Keyboard with 16 push buttons. This means I probably can’t just hook in some keyboard. I’ll need to find a way to send specific commands to the RE256. No idea if there is a command-line feature, but assume (! ) there is.
  • “The Tape test program does a comprehensive evaluation including.. ” Tape based? Fuck. Odds of acquiring original software just plummeted. There must be hard copies of that stuff somewhere though maybe in a manual
  • “The length of these programs give some idea of the time required to program the RE201 – the tape and tape recorder program consisting of 3229 lines of BASIC and the REPLOT program which simply allows plotting of functions occupies 2400 lines of BASIC”.. haha ha. yeah I’m completely fucked here. Even if I get this POS working, I’ll have nothing I can do with it.

Not Terrifying, but useful info gleaned:

  • Monitor is not RGB ( not surprising ) but rather TTL
  • RS232 interface for printing results
  • Overall a pretty bad-ass piece of machinery

BUYING SHIT

When you can’t do … buy! I think this is probably great advice for business acquisition or something. For me it means I can obsess about gear, instead of learning how to use it. Well I guess I’m buying this gear SO I can learn to use my other gear – but same basic shit. After another week or so of hunting I have acquired:

  • Manuals for the RE901 keyboard, the RE201, and some other RE audio gear. Some of them are programmable, so I hope that their chapters on IEEE interface will contain something useful.
  • Practically NIB IBM 5150 monitor. I probably should have just stuck with a smaller TTL security monitor or something, but this showed up on CL, and only had to drive an hour to get it. And I’m always hoping I can sell this shit at a later date. Plus, you know. It’s cool vintage computer shit. Oh it came with a keyboard – which are also in demand for gaming.

Cont…

update: August: no update. Monitor is sitting in a box in the garage. Listed keyboard for a stupid price online, just to see if anyone bites. I guess I could probably just check real quick to see if I get a signal from the RE256 on the Monitor. But you know – lots of other stuff going on.

 

 

Radiometer Electronics / RE: Technology / Confusing Dutch Company / Distortion Analyzer

This happened like a year ago, but I’m trying to get through my long ass list of projects. Most of them are small and trivial, and I hesitate to even post them here. Wow, you cut a cord, flipped the polarity and now your power supply is negative-center! Huzzah! I mean I was pretty proud of that, but yeah – not really “post worthy”.

Oh, but this one is.

So I like to pretend I’m learning about audio electronics. I read some stuff, try and pick out the gist of it.. sort of like reading an abstract of a paper instead of the whole thing. About 2 years ago I decided I want to build speakers, or repair amps, or some stupid shit. Why? dunno. But it seemed like a cool hobby, with lots of smart people, and I desperately want to be smart.

So while I bungle my way around an oscilloscope, and trying to trace circuits ( and failing mostly ) – I see this beauty on ebay: an RE:256 Distortion Analyzer. Distortion / Spectrum Analyzers aren’t really important for basic audio electronics – but past a certain point they matter a whole lot. And the good ones remain expensive – vintage HP’s are in the $500+ range. So when I saw this RE256 at like $150… I was excited. Now, do I need a distortion analyzer? well no. But it seemed like it would be great to have. For example, I could test the distortion on an amp, make some changes, and see if I had improved it or not.

Researching the re256 was not easy. I mean – look at the search terms here:

“RE”
“256”
“Distortion”
“Analyzer”

I seriously don’t know how I got my first break, but I came across an audio forum talking about the RE204 Distortion Analyzer, and how it was super well made, and awesome. Hard to find, and replacement parts were non-existent. I don’t know why, but it was like the hooks were in. Because if there is one thing better than owning a useful piece of equipment – it is owning a super rare, hard to find version. Well, you might say the latter impacts the former, and you’d be right! But the heart only knows what it wants. And I wanted it.

In my mind – the 256 was just a “better” version of the 204. I don’t know why I thought that – but sadly, it is a common mistake i make. So of course I bid, and of course I won – and of course things went down hill from there.

The Monitor

So when it showed up, I was excited – and immediately disappointed. See, other analyzer like the hp 8903 have a digital display on it.


I thought I saw one on the RE256. I was wrong. I also quickly realized there aren’t even any buttons on this fucking thing. It is just a big black box with some jacks on it. Well, no worries – I can plug in a monitor, and sure it needs an older 5pin keyboard, but no worries. I have adapters. Note the unrealistic optimism here, and the beginning of the Sunk Cost fallacy. This is an ongoing theme in my life, along with the “cut twice, forget to measure” thing. So I get my plugs and my monitors, and hook it all up, and nothing happens. No signal, etc. Now I’m not too worried, because I didn’t buy this “as-is” this fucking thing is supposed to work. So I must be making a mistake here. So I started on a quest for a user manual.

The Search

I also relish a good “search”. Fun to obsess about you know?:It took a while, but this is what I found out:

  • RE stands for “Radiometer Electronics” a dutch company. At some point it split in half with Audio on oneside, and medical tech on the other. The medical tech is still being made – the audio died out.
  • Parts are beyond impossible to find. There are a few replacement boards floating around on ebay – each priced $600+
  • Manuals are hard to find
  • I was able to find out some stuff about the RE204, and 500 series gear… but not much on the 256.

And then I had a breakthrough – look at this beauty.

Thank you “Test & Measurement World” magazine! Look at all that shit it does! I’m excited again. In a short period of time I realize I need

  • Vintage monitor
  • Vintage keyboard
  • Programming manuals

So one of the many twists here is that the RE256 is designed as an automated tester – like I read about the RE204 (link) there is programming done in BASIC ( woo! ). But I’m hoping I can find the actual programs out there somewhere. I set this in the back of my head as I race to Goodwill.. surely they will have what I need. I come back with an old keyboard, some adapters, but no monitor.

As I try and read up on what kind of monitor I will actually need – I fall into a deep deep rabbit hole.

Next time: Scanlines.

BATTLE DLL! How to Replace missing DLL in windows 7

regsvr dmocx.dllMy Device Manager stopped working. Looking online I found a number of possible routes to fix this problem.

  • sfc /scannow : (   https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/kb/929833 )
    • This runs a scan, looks for problems and “fixes” them
    • Puts together a shitty hard to read log file
    • Spoor: Windows Resource Protection found corrupt files but was unable to fix some of them 
  • Windows System Update Readiness Tool
    • This runs a scan, looks for problems and “fixes” them. Fixed 1 problem, left 3
    • Puts together much easier to read log file! Turn off text wrapping..
      (f)    CSI Payload File Missing    0x00000000    dmocx.dll  …
      (f)    CSI Payload File Missing    0x00000000    TabletPCPlatformInput-core-Replacement.man
      (fix)    CSI Payload File Missing    CSI File Replaced    File: TabletPCPlatformInput-core-Replacement.man From: C:\Windows\winsxs\x86_microsoft-windows-m..eplacementmanifests_31bf3856ad364e35_6.1.7601.17514_none_fdfbc5f949b9a49e\TabletPCPlatformInput-core-Replacement.man
    • Spoor: Bunch of shit still not fixed

Ok, so when I look up dmocx.dll – that looks exactly what I need. So this next part should be easy… right? just replace the corrupted guy.

  • Windows Startup Repair
    • Make sure you don’t write over your install ( click that hidden little “Repair” option )
    • Spoor: Doesn’t do shit
    • Didn’t do shit. Said my startup files were fine.
  • Grab the file you need directly from your Install CD
    • Took me a while to find out how to do this. DISM!
    • Spoor: Permission Errors
      • Make sure you are running cmd as Admin
      • Add in a READONLY flag
        • dism /mount-wim /wimfile:f:\sources\install.wim /index:1 /MountDir:c:\targetDir /ReadOnly
      • Create targetDir before hand… dsim doesn’t create the directory

This mounts windows7 files to the targetDir on your C:. You can now drop into windows system32 and grab that pesky dll, and copy it to your main system32.

  • Don’t forget to reg that little fucker!
    • Regsvr32 dmocx.dll

SCORE!

Time Spent: 4+ hours: Seeing as this is about average for fixing shitty windows issues, gonna give myself 2 points

OS’s Reinstalled: Zero! I actually fixed it. So huzzuh for me. +50

Backups Created: 1. I backed up my C drive before fucking around with it. How crazy is that. +3

Style: meh

How do I turn off auto play on facebook videos on iphone? Excellent question!

Has your data skyrocketed recently? Our data went through the roof. After years of only using 2 GB per month, we broke 6 GBs this month!

Verizon doesn’t give us any real breakdown of our data use, and immediately blamed facebook. Although I don’t use facebook that often, I wanted to make sure I had removed the facebook excuse from Verizon’s arsenal. They suggested we disable autoplay. But it wasn’t that easy to do!!!!

Facebook has changed how to disable autoplay – so previous online instructions have not been helpful. The links I found pointed to outdated methods. Using some trial an error, I have put together this tutorial. Images below are for an iPhone 6 running IOS 8.1 .

First of all fire up your FACEBOOK APP. In the lower right corner, select “MORE”

how to change facebook autoplay 2015 2014 1

Select SETTINGS

how to change facebook autoplay 2015 2014 settings

Select VIDEOS AND PHOTOS

how to change facebook autoplay 2015 2014 videos and photos

Select AUTO-PLAY

how to change facebook autoplay 2015 2014 autoplay
Here you will see a number of options. This is what I selected:

  • Disabled smart autoplay
  • Turned on “Never play Videos Automatically”

how to change facebook autoplay 2015 2014 auto-play options

If this reduces your data bill, please comment and let me know!

 

BLINDSIDED: WD Passport Drive Upgrade

western-digital-my-passport-essential-500gb.7039195This one is a complete failure, but learned a few things. Wanted to update my WD Passport Essential from a 500G to 2TB drive. My usual “Measure Zero, Cut Thrice” approach served me poorly here.

I Ordered a Toshiba 2TB driving, thinking I would just swap it out with the 500G drive already in my passport. nope.

1) The WD Passport drives have the miniUSB connector soldered to the drive. No swappy swappy.

2) Shit was too big to fit anyway

HGST MQ01ABB200 2TB 5400 RPM SATA 3.0Gb/s 2.5″ Hard Drive

  • Average Seek Time: 12ms
  • Height (maximum): 15 mm
  • Width (maximum): 69.85mm
  • Length (maximum): 100mm
  • Model #: MQ01ABB200
  • Item #: 9B-0B1-0053-001P9

It is actually pretty hard to find an enclosure that takes a 15mm 2.5 inch SATA.
Also worth noting: many of these USB 3.0 drive enclosures are capped at 1TB ( or less ).

I finally found one for $30- hopefully it doesn’t suck too bad. Could have bought a new Seagate or WD USB 3.0 2 TB enclosure for $40 cheaper. Sucks.

FINAL SCORE:

Time spent: 2 weeks of waiting for products to arrive ( and counting ) : -20
$$$$: Could have solved problem for $40 less AND gotten product already: -20
Successfully upgraded to 2TB backup drive: yeah sort of I guess + 10