Macs are so easy to use!

Because this stupid Epson printer thing couldn’t get any more difficult, of course it is. I tried to print to the printer via a mac book pro, and found out the drivers are only for the very latest OS, which JUST RELEASED LIKE 10 days ago. OF course I didn’t realize this right away… nah, I was like,

“Sure, I’ll upgrade from 10.10 to 10.13 because it’s a mac and that doesn’t even sound like a major upgrade amirite? Fuck no, I’m not right.KERNAL PANIC 

Fuck yeah. So installing new printer drivers turned into 2 days of fucking around trying to resolve this piece of shit problem.

Oh and fuck wordpress because I don’t know why it keeps rotating this fucking image.

I’m clearly having some sort of technology breakdown going on in my life. Is this a sign of spiritual sickness? Did I not make the proper sacrifices to Vulcan?

 

Epson 640XP crap wireless set up

Epson software can’t find the fucking printer on my network. I can clearly see it on the network via router software, and I have literally connected to it via IP. I can print from it now. But the Epson software, and WIN10 says they can’t find the printer via printer software. How the fuck can you make a printer that struggles with wifi in 2017. It blew me away too – I saw all kinds of complaints about cannon printers having issues… wtf guys.

Anethor Pathc Toesday with Mikrosoft Wankers 10 August 8, 2017—KB4034658 (OS Build 14393.1593)

Oh hey, my win10 install is stuck in an endless loop of installs. Windows support has been unresponsive for 2 days. Seriously, I used to be surprised that MS lost their dominance from the 90’s, sure as fuck not surprised anymore.

They fucking OWN us, yet manage to secure zero fucking loyalty for their shit products.

Bonus! New windows update deletes your update history!

It’s never our fault: GoDaddy again


I’m having terrible speeds connecting to my FTP server which I host with GoDaddy. Call tech support, we do a traceroute. They blame COX, my ISP.

Tracing route to ip-107-180-12-113.ip.secureserver.net [107.180.12.113]
over a maximum of 30 hops:

1    <1 ms    <1 ms    <1 ms  router.asus.com [192.168.1.1]
2     7 ms     7 ms     6 ms  xx.xx.xx.xx
3     7 ms     7 ms     7 ms  xx.xx.xx.xx
4     7 ms     8 ms     7 ms  xx.xx.xx.xx
5    69 ms    67 ms    68 ms  xx.xx.xx.xx
6    68 ms    67 ms    67 ms  xx.xx.xx.xx
7    75 ms    75 ms    77 ms  xx.xx.xx.xx
8    75 ms    74 ms    76 ms  xx.xx.xx.xx
9     *        *        *     Request timed out.
10     *        *        *     Request timed out.
11     *        *        *     Request timed out.
12     *        *        *     Request timed out.
13    74 ms    75 ms    75 ms  ip-107-180-12-113.ip.secureserver.net [107.180.12.113]

Everything after #5 are godaddy servers. But you know – gotta follow steps. So I call COX, who basically drop me into endless hold. Well first they told me they couldn’t help me with my router, and that anything that happens after my router connects is not their responsibility. OK whatever.

So lets give old GoDaddy a call again and see what happens this time. Sent them a traceroute. They said hops 9-12 give back a fake result due to their load balancing – that hop 5 is where the problems are starting, which is COX. So I’m too tired to call COX back – we will try it tomorrow.

Did some research, my ping times are fine – today I am back to nice and fast FTP to my host, even though the ping looks exactly the same. Can’t prove, but considering ONLY my godaddy FTP was slow as shit – that it was probably a GoDaddy issue.

 

 

 

RE256 Part II: The Searching Continues

Continued from Part 1

SCANLINES

Modern monitors have a much higher refresh rate than in the old days, by a factor of 10. What I needed was something that could handle 15hz ( or so – I didn’t know the exact refresh rate, since technical manuals are hard to find ). This is where I found a bunch of useful information from people who are into retrogames. If you are REALLY into old games like streetfighter for your NES you don’t roll with some shitty “modern” LCD/LED screen. You go oldschool CRT, where the scanlines are the luxurious background texture of your nostaglia fix.

edit: WTF happened to my re256 links! Maybe I deleted them all in a rage fit or something, but man. I’m really missing that folder right now

OK, so I basically need a 80s era monitor, or one of the specialized NEC Multisync monitors. ( cool, now I know why it said Multisync on the side of my monitors all those years ago ). I’m also competing with people who want to run their old AppleII and need a monitor. Some of those old CRTs are literally selling for $500+ on ebay.

Now, the time is ticking on my ability to return this thing… so I need to know if it even works beyond powering on. I hook up my oscilloscope hoping I can see something useful.

 

I don’t know why, but I was sort of hoping the CRT would just.. magically work and I’d see text. (It isn’t that easy… you can watch this video if interested in converting your oscope to a monitor..) Instead I get this. This is encouraging, since that looks like a waveform – though I have no idea wtf it means. However, the top looks like a TTL signal ( I think? )


and the rest seems like a composite video signal.

Not sure what to make of it… but at least the RE256 is putting out something on the video channel.

Well – shopping / hunting for old computer shit is my idea of fun, so I’m going to put this on slow burn and wait for a monitor to show up.

HOW TO USE THE RE256

So I’ve realized at this point that using this block of metal is going to be a challenge. The more I know about it, the better I can fix it, and how fucked up is that I’m trying to fix a piece of gear that I know next to nothing about, so I can then maybe learn how to use it. Why not just dump it? I wish I knew, and I wish I had. But at this point I have a fantasy in my head of fixing this, and having this awesome distortion analyzer and I’m like already a “RADIOMETER ELECTRONICS” fanboy. They are my BRAND motherfucker.

I’m hurting to recount this because I am missing a folder of 20+ solid links, including discussion of these products on audioforums. But one of the terrifying things I came across was this review of the 201 Audio Analyzer. I take that back there are several terrifying things going on here:

  • IEEE controlled interface, using a custom piece of hardware. RE901 Keyboard with 16 push buttons. This means I probably can’t just hook in some keyboard. I’ll need to find a way to send specific commands to the RE256. No idea if there is a command-line feature, but assume (! ) there is.
  • “The Tape test program does a comprehensive evaluation including.. ” Tape based? Fuck. Odds of acquiring original software just plummeted. There must be hard copies of that stuff somewhere though maybe in a manual
  • “The length of these programs give some idea of the time required to program the RE201 – the tape and tape recorder program consisting of 3229 lines of BASIC and the REPLOT program which simply allows plotting of functions occupies 2400 lines of BASIC”.. haha ha. yeah I’m completely fucked here. Even if I get this POS working, I’ll have nothing I can do with it.

Not Terrifying, but useful info gleaned:

  • Monitor is not RGB ( not surprising ) but rather TTL
  • RS232 interface for printing results
  • Overall a pretty bad-ass piece of machinery

BUYING SHIT

When you can’t do … buy! I think this is probably great advice for business acquisition or something. For me it means I can obsess about gear, instead of learning how to use it. Well I guess I’m buying this gear SO I can learn to use my other gear – but same basic shit. After another week or so of hunting I have acquired:

  • Manuals for the RE901 keyboard, the RE201, and some other RE audio gear. Some of them are programmable, so I hope that their chapters on IEEE interface will contain something useful.
  • Practically NIB IBM 5150 monitor. I probably should have just stuck with a smaller TTL security monitor or something, but this showed up on CL, and only had to drive an hour to get it. And I’m always hoping I can sell this shit at a later date. Plus, you know. It’s cool vintage computer shit. Oh it came with a keyboard – which are also in demand for gaming.

Cont…

update: August: no update. Monitor is sitting in a box in the garage. Listed keyboard for a stupid price online, just to see if anyone bites. I guess I could probably just check real quick to see if I get a signal from the RE256 on the Monitor. But you know – lots of other stuff going on.

 

 

Why is the next button on the left? “CANCEL/BACK/OK. ” “CANCEL/OK” vs “OK/CANCEL”

stupid-as-fuck-next-button

Why the ever-living fuck isn’t the NEXT > Button on the right?

  • We read from left to right. So the concept of motion is left to right.. so why does choosing the rightmost button take you backwards?!
  • This metaphor of pages turning, or moving places from left to right is so ingrained in this example, there is even a FUCKING RIGHT ARROW.

Back / Cancel should be on the LEFT, and Next on the RIGHT. Look, I can maybe see this layout used if the user is about to do something really fucking scary… maybe wipe a hard drive? But in that case you would probably want to highlight cancel.

I see this shit all the time, and I swear to god it started with oversseas programmers, and in the last decade has become the standard for idiot UI.

Oh hey a quick google showed me two articles:

http://uxmovement.com/buttons/why-ok-buttons-in-dialog-boxes-work-best-on-the-right/

https://www.nngroup.com/articles/ok-cancel-or-cancel-ok/

Looking at the reasons for “OK / CANCEL” and they are stupid as fuck. Except for one… “Microsoft does it that way”. Which is a half assed argument. Not surprised that Apple does it correctly “CANCEL/OK” because they know half a shit about UI.

Well, I’m old enough to remember when it was done correctly, consistently, so fuck all you all. It should be CANCEL/BACK/OK.

BATTLE DLL! How to Replace missing DLL in windows 7

regsvr dmocx.dllMy Device Manager stopped working. Looking online I found a number of possible routes to fix this problem.

  • sfc /scannow : (   https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/kb/929833 )
    • This runs a scan, looks for problems and “fixes” them
    • Puts together a shitty hard to read log file
    • Spoor: Windows Resource Protection found corrupt files but was unable to fix some of them 
  • Windows System Update Readiness Tool
    • This runs a scan, looks for problems and “fixes” them. Fixed 1 problem, left 3
    • Puts together much easier to read log file! Turn off text wrapping..
      (f)    CSI Payload File Missing    0x00000000    dmocx.dll  …
      (f)    CSI Payload File Missing    0x00000000    TabletPCPlatformInput-core-Replacement.man
      (fix)    CSI Payload File Missing    CSI File Replaced    File: TabletPCPlatformInput-core-Replacement.man From: C:\Windows\winsxs\x86_microsoft-windows-m..eplacementmanifests_31bf3856ad364e35_6.1.7601.17514_none_fdfbc5f949b9a49e\TabletPCPlatformInput-core-Replacement.man
    • Spoor: Bunch of shit still not fixed

Ok, so when I look up dmocx.dll – that looks exactly what I need. So this next part should be easy… right? just replace the corrupted guy.

  • Windows Startup Repair
    • Make sure you don’t write over your install ( click that hidden little “Repair” option )
    • Spoor: Doesn’t do shit
    • Didn’t do shit. Said my startup files were fine.
  • Grab the file you need directly from your Install CD
    • Took me a while to find out how to do this. DISM!
    • Spoor: Permission Errors
      • Make sure you are running cmd as Admin
      • Add in a READONLY flag
        • dism /mount-wim /wimfile:f:\sources\install.wim /index:1 /MountDir:c:\targetDir /ReadOnly
      • Create targetDir before hand… dsim doesn’t create the directory

This mounts windows7 files to the targetDir on your C:. You can now drop into windows system32 and grab that pesky dll, and copy it to your main system32.

  • Don’t forget to reg that little fucker!
    • Regsvr32 dmocx.dll

SCORE!

Time Spent: 4+ hours: Seeing as this is about average for fixing shitty windows issues, gonna give myself 2 points

OS’s Reinstalled: Zero! I actually fixed it. So huzzuh for me. +50

Backups Created: 1. I backed up my C drive before fucking around with it. How crazy is that. +3

Style: meh

BLINDSIDED: WD Passport Drive Upgrade

western-digital-my-passport-essential-500gb.7039195This one is a complete failure, but learned a few things. Wanted to update my WD Passport Essential from a 500G to 2TB drive. My usual “Measure Zero, Cut Thrice” approach served me poorly here.

I Ordered a Toshiba 2TB driving, thinking I would just swap it out with the 500G drive already in my passport. nope.

1) The WD Passport drives have the miniUSB connector soldered to the drive. No swappy swappy.

2) Shit was too big to fit anyway

HGST MQ01ABB200 2TB 5400 RPM SATA 3.0Gb/s 2.5″ Hard Drive

  • Average Seek Time: 12ms
  • Height (maximum): 15 mm
  • Width (maximum): 69.85mm
  • Length (maximum): 100mm
  • Model #: MQ01ABB200
  • Item #: 9B-0B1-0053-001P9

It is actually pretty hard to find an enclosure that takes a 15mm 2.5 inch SATA.
Also worth noting: many of these USB 3.0 drive enclosures are capped at 1TB ( or less ).

I finally found one for $30- hopefully it doesn’t suck too bad. Could have bought a new Seagate or WD USB 3.0 2 TB enclosure for $40 cheaper. Sucks.

FINAL SCORE:

Time spent: 2 weeks of waiting for products to arrive ( and counting ) : -20
$$$$: Could have solved problem for $40 less AND gotten product already: -20
Successfully upgraded to 2TB backup drive: yeah sort of I guess + 10