BATTLE: KEF 105.4 SPEAKER GRILL!

I’ve been looking for a set of 105.4 Grills for a while, but haven’t been able to find any. Due to recent family changes, having grills have gone from “nice to have” to “yeah let’s get that done”. I already have metal grills for the top two drivers, but do not have the grills for the bass drivers.
As you know the KEF 105.4 have an angled face which makes it a bit more of a challenge. Here is an example of how they should look:
[GALLERY=media, 7651]KEF_105.4_Speakers_web by heavymod posted Jul 9, 2016 at 4:52 AM[/GALLERY]
Not only are they angled, but they are thicker at the top than at the bottom – which gives it a cool look IMO.
First I traced the outline of the speaker, then sketched in how I thought the grill should look. I measured the angles using a protractor, and used these angles for my first test cuts.
[GALLERY=media, 7652]IMG_4124 by heavymod posted Jul 9, 2016 at 5:00 AM[/GALLERY]
[GALLERY=media, 7655]IMG_4125 by heavymod posted Jul 9, 2016 at 5:00 AM[/GALLERY]
I struggled to get the angles correct, but ended up going with 81.5 for the face that touches the speaker. For simplicity I decided to not try and force the front angle… however that turned out would be fine for the prototype.
[GALLERY=media, 7654]IMG_4154 by heavymod posted Jul 9, 2016 at 5:00 AM[/GALLERY]
81.5 degrees is a pretty close match. I used a mitre saw for these test cuts. The mitre saw however can’t cut longer pieces… so for this first piece I cut just the top / bottom, and used my other saw to connect the lines as best I could.
[GALLERY=media, 7657]IMG_4152 by heavymod posted Jul 9, 2016 at 5:07 AM[/GALLERY]
The crossbar ( top and bottom of grill ) had to also be cut at an angle. I couldn’t be as precise with this, and used the bevel feature on my handsaw.
[GALLERY=media, 7656]IMG_4196 by heavymod posted Jul 9, 2016 at 5:00 AM[/GALLERY]
You can see here how one face is cut at about 10 degrees and the other 5 degrees. Better to have it a bit too steep than not steep enough. If it is too steep the top of the crossbar will remain flush, and the rest of it won’t have good contact… but all that will be visible is the top edge, so that is ok. You can see this comes together ok:
[GALLERY=media, 7667]IMG_4192 by heavymod posted Jul 9, 2016 at 5:15 AM[/GALLERY]
I should point out before going further: I made one modification to the usual design – I want my grills to go the full length. I often see older KEF’s with discoloration from the part of the speaker face that was not covered. I want to avoid that.
My next step is to glue the pieces together. This was a bit of a challenge since I need right angles like a picture frame… but the grill frame is right angles only in one dimension. I’m probably not explaining this well…
Here is the whole unit “clamped”…
[GALLERY=media, 7671]IMG_4204 by heavymod posted Jul 9, 2016 at 5:26 AM[/GALLERY]
I’ll explain the weights in a moment. So while the grill has 90 degree angles on the x/y axis, it is not 90 degrees on the z axis like a picture frame or shelving might be. when I would fully clamp down, this would happen:
[GALLERY=media, 7670]IMG_4201 by heavymod posted Jul 9, 2016 at 5:23 AM[/GALLERY]
And what I needed was this:
[GALLERY=media, 7669]IMG_4202 by heavymod posted Jul 9, 2016 at 5:23 AM[/GALLERY]
So in the clamped photo above, I have loosened clamps on the top/bottom pieces so they can angle correctly against the concrete. This means the clamps no longer pull the left/right pieces together, so I use the weights to apply that pressure.
I then add on the extensions that will house the clips/pins and again glue.
[GALLERY=media, 7666]IMG_4242 by heavymod posted Jul 9, 2016 at 5:07 AM[/GALLERY]
Here is what it looks like at this point in the project:
[GALLERY=media, 7661]IMG_4264 by heavymod posted Jul 9, 2016 at 5:07 AM[/GALLERY]
My next step is to drill the holes for the grill pegs. I ordered some pegs from ebay with these dimensions. They are not an exact fit, but the best I could find. They are maybe a mm too small in diameter. I contacted KEF a few times, but was not able to get any info about the original speaker pegs. By wrapping a bit of electrical tape around the peg, It becomes a snug fit. Since I don’t intend to remove these often ( for a few years at least ) this is an ok solution for now.
[GALLERY=media, 7665]IMG_4256 by heavymod posted Jul 9, 2016 at 5:07 AM[/GALLERY]
[GALLERY=media, 7664]IMG_4258 by heavymod posted Jul 9, 2016 at 5:07 AM[/GALLERY]
[GALLERY=media, 7660]IMG_4262 by heavymod posted Jul 9, 2016 at 5:07 AM[/GALLERY]
Oh hey look… the reason I’m building these in the first place… tiny hands.
[GALLERY=media, 7659]IMG_4214-1200 by heavymod posted Jul 9, 2016 at 5:07 AM[/GALLERY]
Accurate drilling was an issue – being off even by a MM means the frame will be angled slightly. The fact that the pegs had some looseness in the holes helped a bit and gave me some leeway, but I will need to address this for the finals.
I’m embarrassed to show the grill cloth wrapping – I did a really poor job, but just wanted to get something on to see how it looked :)

[GALLERY=media, 7674]IMG_4266 by heavymod posted Jul 9, 2016 at 7:47 PM[/GALLERY][GALLERY=media, 7662]IMG_4265 by heavymod posted Jul 9, 2016 at 5:07 AM[/GALLERY][GALLERY=media, 7663]IMG_4267 by heavymod posted Jul 9, 2016 at 5:07 AM[/GALLERY][GALLERY=media, 7676]IMG_4268 by heavymod posted Jul 9, 2016 at 7:47 PM[/GALLERY]

You can see a few problems I will need to address …
  • The grill isn’t sitting flush – two of the pegs snapped off – I drilled the pilot hole too small and really had to jam them in there. I think also my drilling being off by a MM or so in different directions put stress on them.
  • There is extra fabric mashed everywhere… This is the first time I’ve done this, so no worries – watched a tutorial on how to do it better. I had been hoping cream would look good.. I wanted to use a vintage grill texture … but I think I will go with black.
  • Better wood – the plywood veneer stripped heavily as I worked it. I will use solid pieces of wood for the finals.
  • Increased precision needed. For the wood pieces, I will re-measure each step… error on the side of too much wood, and sand down the extra MM or so needed for precise alignment. I am unsure how to handle the drill holes. A drill press would be ideal, but I do not have access to one. There are a number of hacks I will try on some scrap wood to see if I can get a good fit. Once I do, I will use that as a jig for the finals.
  • Glue + screws for final assembly.
  • Paint wood to hide it better behind the grill cloth
  • I would like to have curved edges to the peg mounts, but as long as they are hidden well, I won’t worry about it.
Posted in DIY, wood | Comments Off on BATTLE: KEF 105.4 SPEAKER GRILL!

BATTLES:…STUFF ( Honda Element Condenser Fan Replacement )

Done some pretty handy stuff lately, but not so much posting. So just giving some highlights..

BATTLE FAN: INSTALLED! +10
BATTLE YARD: MOWED! +1
BATTLE RAT TRAP: DEAD RATS! +1
BATTLE SPRAY FOR ROACHES: GOOD JOB!
BATTLE ANTS: LOSING!
BATTLE KEEP CHILD ALIVE: YES +0 BECAUSE THAT IS YOUR FUCKING JOB
BATTLE LET ASSHOLE INSTALL PIRATED SOFTWARE ON YOUR MACHINE: FUCKING LOST

Two interesting things… I replaced a fan in my element. I used a mix of instructions from these sources:

http://www.elementownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=66272

I don’t want to repeat too much of what these videos cover, but these are worth noting:

    • Take off the splashguard. Removing the clips under the fan(s) is nearly impossible from the top. It takes an extra 10 minutes, but it worth it.Here is what those clips look like. Sorry for the crap video – iphone balanced on my chest while doing this.
    • Clips are confusing…

  • Relays and Fuses are not the same thing.I didn’t know this. When your condenser fan isn’t working – you need to troubleshoot the fan, but you also need to troubleshoot the fuse and the relay. The relay has two connections .. basically when electricity goes to 1 side, it connects the second circuit. You turn on the AC … the dial sends an electrical signal to the relay… the relay then connects the fan to power. Troubleshooting these is pretty easy actually.5986-05184996-1206152 IMG_4095-1200
  • Quit being an idiotIMG_4166

SCORE RECAP!

Time spent: 4+ hours  -20 points
Money Spent: $60 ( vs $300 ) +50 points mofo
Extra Screws: 1. -10 points
Broke Car: Negative. +10 points

Total: GO TEAM USA!

 

 

 

Posted in Auto, DIY | Comments Off on BATTLES:…STUFF ( Honda Element Condenser Fan Replacement )

BATTLE DLL! How to Replace missing DLL in windows 7

regsvr dmocx.dllMy Device Manager stopped working. Looking online I found a number of possible routes to fix this problem.

  • sfc /scannow : (   https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/kb/929833 )
    • This runs a scan, looks for problems and “fixes” them
    • Puts together a shitty hard to read log file
    • Spoor: Windows Resource Protection found corrupt files but was unable to fix some of them 
  • Windows System Update Readiness Tool
    • This runs a scan, looks for problems and “fixes” them. Fixed 1 problem, left 3
    • Puts together much easier to read log file! Turn off text wrapping..
      (f)    CSI Payload File Missing    0x00000000    dmocx.dll  …
      (f)    CSI Payload File Missing    0x00000000    TabletPCPlatformInput-core-Replacement.man
      (fix)    CSI Payload File Missing    CSI File Replaced    File: TabletPCPlatformInput-core-Replacement.man From: C:\Windows\winsxs\x86_microsoft-windows-m..eplacementmanifests_31bf3856ad364e35_6.1.7601.17514_none_fdfbc5f949b9a49e\TabletPCPlatformInput-core-Replacement.man
    • Spoor: Bunch of shit still not fixed

Ok, so when I look up dmocx.dll – that looks exactly what I need. So this next part should be easy… right? just replace the corrupted guy.

  • Windows Startup Repair
    • Make sure you don’t write over your install ( click that hidden little “Repair” option )
    • Spoor: Doesn’t do shit
    • Didn’t do shit. Said my startup files were fine.
  • Grab the file you need directly from your Install CD
    • Took me a while to find out how to do this. DISM!
    • Spoor: Permission Errors
      • Make sure you are running cmd as Admin
      • Add in a READONLY flag
        • dism /mount-wim /wimfile:f:\sources\install.wim /index:1 /MountDir:c:\targetDir /ReadOnly
      • Create targetDir before hand… dsim doesn’t create the directory

This mounts windows7 files to the targetDir on your C:. You can now drop into windows system32 and grab that pesky dll, and copy it to your main system32.

  • Don’t forget to reg that little fucker!
    • Regsvr32 dmocx.dll

SCORE!

Time Spent: 4+ hours: Seeing as this is about average for fixing shitty windows issues, gonna give myself 2 points

OS’s Reinstalled: Zero! I actually fixed it. So huzzuh for me. +50

Backups Created: 1. I backed up my C drive before fucking around with it. How crazy is that. +3

Style: meh

Posted in Tech, Windows | Tagged , , | Comments Off on BATTLE DLL! How to Replace missing DLL in windows 7

Garden Shade… Battle Rescheduled

Welp, that sure didn’t happen.

  • Can buy square for $10 at Home Depot. So fuck me for all that time I put in.
  • No time to build fancy shit before tomato season. As you can see these Tomatos are booming, and summer is beating down.

So we are going with our tried and true “green poles in ground” method. Nothing too fancy, but functional.

IMG_1080-1200 IMG_1081-12004 poles hammered into ground for each bed ( 7 ft poles, like $7 each ) . Twine tied between the poles. Hung shade cloth on the side that gets heavy afternoon sun, and birdcloth everywhere else.

IMG_1090-1200There was a gap on this side between the two beds, so I created a bit of a door with a 3rd piece of shade cloth. Note the old grommet style clips.. This year I did it a bit differently.

IMG_1091-1200In the past I used fancy grommet clip things.. this year I just used quick ties. gives me more flexibility, will be easy to clip off when I need to.I can also basically “sew” layers together so they are all fixed to the same point.

IMG_1092-1200

In the past, I’ve had trouble when the monsoons come through – the shade cloth turns into a giant fucking sail, and will often break the twine. This year I tied each piece of twine separately to the pole, so if one breaks, the whole thing doesn’t collapse.

I’ve clipped a lot of layers to other layers though… so I’m worried that it will make it even more sail-like.. we will see.

SCORE!

ZERO, it’s not a goddamn battle. I gave up, and stuck up the same shit I did last year. But here is the breakdown anyway.

Time spent: 2-3 hours, mostly at Lowe’s
Specialty tools needed: A post pounder thing really makes this a ton easier. I borrowed one.
Time wasted before I went back to tried and true method: 10+ hours
Overall quality of finished project: 7.3
S.O. Happiness Factor: Achieved

 

 

 

 

Posted in DIY, garden | Comments Off on Garden Shade… Battle Rescheduled

Garden Shade… preliminary scrimmage pt 1: The Square

raisedbedcover1

Well, it’s Sunday night, and I should either be working or sleeping. So instead I’m fucking off in the garage.

I need to put together some garden shade over some very lovely raised garden beds. In the past we just hammered in some poles, and strung wire between them. But this year, I thought, lets do something classy.

Requirements:

  • must fit dimensions of garden bed ( 4×8 ft )
  • must be taller than tomatoe plants ( ~5 feet )
  • Only to be used on some of the beds at any given time, due to crop rotation
  • Be nice to move / stack / take it down on off season. Failing that, be nice to have it look good without the Shade cloth on it

Internet searching shows a number of options.. most of them look pretty ghetto. The pic above seemed cool. Most of them look like this:

P1000343 ef478d586b4475ae1b8770bad59b00d0 tomato-trellis-3They use PVC pipe with electrical fittings. I don’t know why, but I fucking hate how these looks. The PVC just seems cheap, and I’m sure it will crack and break in the sun – looking like shit down the road. Also not a lot of options in terms of mobility.

So I’, going to use the initial image as inspiration – basically build something with a light wood frame, that can encircle each bed. It can have either a loose fitting garden shade over the top, or even have the shade stapled to the frame, if we want to keep out birds. Those little fuckers like our tomatoes.

Section A: Shit I can’t do right

coop-internal-frameAs you know, precision is not really my thing. And it seems to me, if I want to do this right, and not have it look like total shit, I’m going to need to build some frames that are actually square. My plan is to make 2 squares per box, for the endcaps, and then link them with 4 longer pieces. I might even have those 4 longer pieces bolt on, so if necessary, I can break these down in the off season. Looking at the picture above, it seems like i can use glue and nails, to create a decent square.

Section B: A Jig

I know from experience if I just try and glue and hammer some wood together, its going to be a failure. What I need is a guide.. a jig that I can just jam the wood into place, slap on glue, and have it be held there sturdy enough to drill the screws in.

The type of joint I’m making is a butt joint. It’s easy and pretty ghetto as far as joints go. It isn’t strong, but I’m hoping my structure will be ok. If needed I can add in some metal l-brackets.

There are a number of tutorials online about butt joints. I don’t remember any of them. What I remember is that I needed to make a jig. Something to make those right angles easy and accurate.

Section C: There’s a hole in the bucket

I’m tired from doing it, and don’t want to sit here writing about it. but basically, to make a jig that makes right angles, you need something that lets you cut at right angles. So I used my square to cobble this together:

IMG_0854

This acts as a guide for my hand held saw. See, here I mark what I want to cut, slide this against the wood, and then use it as a guide.
IMG_0856-800

cut cut cut

IMG_0857-800

I’m surprised that it works so well.

IMG_0859-800Don’t worry, that feeling wont last.

Now that I have some small wood sticks, I can start constructing my jig. My goal is to creating something like this.. where the green pieces are my garden shade frame. So I’m going to line the other pieces up, drill them into some MDF, and then whenever I need a right angle, I will just push the wood into here. easy.peasy.

IMG_0861-800Stuff happens. I measure and clamp and drill. The wood keeps moving and I need more clamps, which I dont have, and its sunday at like 2 am, but eventually it sort of happens. I get this:

IMG_0866-800 IMG_0867-800 IMG_0868-800 IMG_0870-800Not too bad! I think. I don’t know, its hard to tell if it works or not. So lets give it a run. I made these 2 inches thick, but my wood is only an inch thick. so I stack two of them for positioning.

IMG_0872-800

Drive in some screws

IMG_0873-800

Which sucks

IMG_0876-800I get new pieces of wood, and this time I drill pilot holes first. I was hoping to avoid that, just because of the additional time needed to swap out bits ever 2 screws.

But my angle looks good. I decide to try and build a mini frame right now. One problem I have is the jig is too large… I trim it down.

 

IMG_0878-800

And keep working my way around. it works ok, but I run into some issues. For example, all my boards weren’t the same size, and my jig is still too large for the last butt joint.
IMG_0882-800

So I trim it down, square it, clamp it, and drill.IMG_0884-800

Final product.. is well, it’s a rectangle. sort of? IMG_0885-800 I’m not sure how I feel about this. I spent a lot of hours to do this, and the more I think about it, I could probably just buy the fucking jig I needed. I’m afraid to google, because I can probably buy it at home depot.

But at least I know I can make a roughly square frame, which is probably good enough for the project.

And there is no such thing as “wasted time” when procrastinating on a Sunday night!

Score:

Cost: low.. $20?: 2 points
Time: shit. 2+ hours: -20
Made a square?: Sort of? +0
R&D: Can probably make a square: +20

OVERALL SCORE: +2!!! Things were made!

 

 

 

 

 

Posted in DIY, garden, wood | Comments Off on Garden Shade… preliminary scrimmage pt 1: The Square

How do I turn off auto play on facebook videos on iphone? Excellent question!

Has your data skyrocketed recently? Our data went through the roof. After years of only using 2 GB per month, we broke 6 GBs this month!

Verizon doesn’t give us any real breakdown of our data use, and immediately blamed facebook. Although I don’t use facebook that often, I wanted to make sure I had removed the facebook excuse from Verizon’s arsenal. They suggested we disable autoplay. But it wasn’t that easy to do!!!!

Facebook has changed how to disable autoplay – so previous online instructions have not been helpful. The links I found pointed to outdated methods. Using some trial an error, I have put together this tutorial. Images below are for an iPhone 6 running IOS 8.1 .

First of all fire up your FACEBOOK APP. In the lower right corner, select “MORE”

how to change facebook autoplay 2015 2014 1

Select SETTINGS

how to change facebook autoplay 2015 2014 settings

Select VIDEOS AND PHOTOS

how to change facebook autoplay 2015 2014 videos and photos

Select AUTO-PLAY

how to change facebook autoplay 2015 2014 autoplay
Here you will see a number of options. This is what I selected:

  • Disabled smart autoplay
  • Turned on “Never play Videos Automatically”

how to change facebook autoplay 2015 2014 auto-play options

If this reduces your data bill, please comment and let me know!

 

Posted in Tech | 5 Comments

Campaign: MKIV GOLF UPGRADES pt. 3

VW Golf MK IV cupholderA long time ago, in a garage far far away, I told my girlfriend I would fix her broken cupholder. I knew they just popped in / out, and getting a new one on ebay would be simple. I would be a hero.

So when the replacement showed up in the mail, I marched outside with my tools, easily popped out the old broken cupholder, and slid the new one in. Hrmm.. slight problem though. It won’t slide all the way in. This is confusing to me, because I’ve been assured what I have is a direct replacement part.

But it was not to be. See, she owned a 1999.5 MkIV Golf. And the original cupholder design was Total Shit. VW would replace it the following year. But the kicker is while the new cupholders would fit in the 2000+ VWs, the 1999.5 was special. There was a small piece of plastic blocking it, and I’d need to “Dremel it out”.

PugzuHl

Well, the project just jumped from a level 1 to level 3 difficulty. To do this, I would need to pull half of the goddamn dash. Here take a gander at PART 1 of the fucking instructions. Yep. you have to take off the ebrake cover, center console, radio, heating unit, and even the FUCKING GLOVE COMPARTMENT to get the radio cage out.

This was clearly more work that I wanted ( or trusted myself ) to do. I could already picture all the broken plastic tabs, my inability to put things back where they belonged, the horrible and inevitable failure.

Step 1 : An easier way

I mean I really looked. I literally took years to figure this out. I tried finding a replacement part, but all the vintage pieces were either in terrible shape, or would just break again anyway. I looked at upgrade the center console to a newer version ( that contained cupholders by the ebrake )

$T2eC16F,!zQE9s3sqJjfBSCwDmOgIw~~60_35But I couldn’t buy them in beige.. and they had quirky additional requirements like “You have to bend the e-brake” or “replace the ebrake handle”. These seemed either dangerous or again, outside my skill level.

So it sat in my “to-do” list, for a very long time. Unsure how to proceed. Unwilling to admit defeat.

And then 1 day, I came across a guy on craigslist who had just gutted his beige Jetta… and aside from a ton of interior pieces I wanted.. he had the upgraded center console. On top of that he assured me that swapping it wasn’t that hard. Even the ebrake. So rather than finding an easier way.. I decided to just swap out fucking everything. New console, New glovebox, and while I was there, I would dremel the shit out of that radio cage and put in the new cupholder.

Step 2: A bunch of stuff happens

I am not going to go play by play on this. Too much has happened. But I’m going to do some major highlights, and maybe offer some tips if you are trying this yourself.

I recommend starting here, on the VWVortex.com Forums. This is a great explanation of how to tear down all the way to the radio cage. Pretty much I followed these instructions, and they walked me through the whole process.

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?958556-DIY-Removing-interior-parts-%28e-brake-center-console-armrest-glovebox-ashtrays%29

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?967146-DIY-Removing-interior-parts-II-%28dash-trim-brake-light-switch-radio-cupholder-radio-HVAC-cage%29

Some things I learned:

  • Don’t trust the dude you bought stuff from. Even if he seemed nice, and used to run his own shop. He probably broke plastic tabs taking the parts off, and there might be parts missing as well. I ended up having to purchase a few black parts for the beige replacement console. Luckily they look pretty good.IMG_0095
  •  Take the time to disconnect the battery. Once you start messing with the glove box area.. you spend a lot of time with your face pressed against that passenger airbag. Would suck to have it go off. It also makes it easier because you can move the shifter around if you are using an automatic. This makes it much easier to slip center console on / off

 

  • If you decide to upgrade your glovebox to a newer version, be prepared for some frustration. 1999.5 comes with a metal support brace that needs to be removed, and it was a bitch to get out. Tight area, lots of force needed. Also… you don’t need to rekey the lock. Your current key VW key will open a new glovebox.

 

  • Try really hard not to break plastic parts. Getting everything to fit back together was a challenge, made even more difficult when broken plastic tabs were no longer there to hold stuff in place. I’m looking at you..uh.. metal bar under the ashtray.IMG_0091
  • Just buy a new ebrake. Don’t mess around with the “Bending” it crap. It costs like $20 on ebay, and fits much nicer. MAKE SURE YOU BUY THE RIGHT MODEL NUMBER. 1JM 711 303 You want the one that is for later model MKIVs. It is the “bent” or “angled” model.I did a video on how to get the  ebrake cover off. Looking back though, I wish I’d just left the black leather. probably would have looked better, but hey. Here is my video anyway on how to change the cover for an ebrake.

 

  • Have the right tools. Definitely need 13MM socket head, Power drill driver for all those damn T20 bolts, Additional interior lighting ( I used a lamp + flashlights as needed ), and plastic tools for prying stuff off without damaging the surface.

IMG_6030

Step 3: Scoring

Time to complete : 2 years. yeah really. Like that girl isn’t even my Girlfriend anymore. -100
Time spent: Maybe 8 hours? Have definitely lost track. -10
Broken Plastic Shit: -10
Cost: $100 total. Less once I sell off old parts. +30
Completed?: Hell yezzzzz. +shitload

SCORE: VICTORY BITCHES

I’m still pretty amazed this all worked out. Looks solid too.

IMG_0098 IMG_0095 IMG_0096-1000all KINDS of cup holding going on now.

 

 

Posted in 1999.5 VW Golf, Auto, DIY | Comments Off on Campaign: MKIV GOLF UPGRADES pt. 3

Campaign: MKIV GOLF UPGRADES pt. 2

I am back to report a minor victory in the overall campaign.

A necessary aspect of the upgrade was replacing the old 1999.5 MKIV emergency brake with a newer version. I think it is like 2004+ MKIV’s have the brake and it is slightly angled to fit the new center console I’m using.

Despite several online forums suggestions “Just grab the ebrake and bend it”, I was dubious. This is such a common solution, that someone on fucking ebay even suggested it when I tried to buy their ebrake. “Oh dont buy a new one, just bend the old one”.

I tried this a bit and

1) It didnt work that well and
2) Bending it just seems like a dumb idea, and something that would probably come back to haunt me at the trial.

So…. bought the new brake, and had to figure out how to remove the black leather hood, and replace it with the current beige one.

On reflection I should have probably just kept the black leather, but w.e.

TIME SPENT: Minimal. maybe an hour or so. 5 pts
COST: Minimal. $20 on ebay. 5 pts
SHIT BROKEN: The leather hood. I gave up and just cut that fucker off. -5 pts
BONUS VIDEO: I made a fucking video. enjoy. +5 pts
WORKS?: Hell yeah it works. +20 pts
CAPS LOCKED? +! PT

OVERALL SCORE: VICTORY

Posted in 1999.5 VW Golf, Auto, DIY | Comments Off on Campaign: MKIV GOLF UPGRADES pt. 2

Battle Wiper Hose: Flashback

Added a video to YouTube showing how to check the line on the washer hose / fluid line. This only covers the area of the line from the hood to the nozzles.

 

Posted in 1999.5 VW Golf, Auto, DIY | Tagged , , , , , , , | Comments Off on Battle Wiper Hose: Flashback

Battle: Guitar Speaker Mod

Speaker Cab from Organ

Nothing too special – I have a vintage speaker cabinet from an organ. I plugged a guitar amp into it, and like how it looks. However my new amp pushes the speaker a bit too hard, and I get some weird distortion noises.. sounds like paper flapping when you are blowing a speaker.

So I am going to:

  • Remove speaker
  • Fix wiring
  • Add new speaker
  • hope shit works

Step 1: Remove the volume control.

Currently there is a cool looking, but useless ( and possibly dangerous ) volume control on the back. It has a series of resistors, and lets you dial down volume. I might be over reacting here, but I don’t want to push my volume from an amp into a resistor.

Does look cool as hell though.

IMG_9810-1000IMG_9808-1000

I unscrew it, cut the wires, and label them.

Step 2: Pull Speaker

IMG_9809-1000

I soldered on this wire previously. Cut it. Unscrew 4 speaker screws and pull out speaker.IMG_9812-1000

It has a weird secondary cone which I assume is to help with treble? I suspect this is what was making the “blown out” paper noise when distortion was ripping through it.

IMG_9814-1000

Here we have our speaker markings. A little internet sleuthery and I’m seeing:

“old extension cabinet for the reverb unit from a hammond organ.”

“additional numbers on the rim are AO-22760-0 and 15586, on cone is has 42H3002.I came out of a Hammond Reverb speaker unit.”

“carefuly it might only be 10-12 watt speaker” ( which would explain me the “blowing out” noises.. I might have been doing exactly that.)

 Step 3: Rewire

I won’t have the new speaker until tomorrow, so in the meantime I’m going to prep one side of my speaker wires to plug into my amp. Luckily I have some sample speaker connectors I got like a year ago as part of an auction lot. Knew those fuckers would come in handy…

tin wires

Tin my wires. solder em in place. pop the plug back together.

assemble cable solder

Step 4: Insert new speaker

I tried to be clever and use spade connectors on the new speaker, but the .250 ones are fractionally too large. So I just soldered all that shit together.

Dropped speaker in box. 4 screws. ready to rocknrollerball.

vintage modern IMG_9836-1000

 

 

I _might_ adjust the back of this cab by adding in 1/4 inch speaker jack plug. However, the only one I’ve found so far is 2 inch outer diameter, and not sure what inner dimensions are. Not sure I want to damage the original speaker cabinet.

Black-Metal-Jack-Ferrule-Single-1-4-imageSo that will probably be my next mod.

SCORES:

Cost: good. reused old shit. paid $30 for the new speaker. +5
Time Spent: Fast. got the whole thing done in an hour or so, counting driving time to buy speaker on Craigs List +5
Quality: its ok. works. not amazing looking yet, and my soldering still sort of sucks.

Overall: Victory. Clean and simple.

Admittedly this was pretty easy, and just involved sticking different stuff together. I got lucky in a few areas, including the speaker screw holes being the same.

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