Win10 Update Error 0x880070002 – 0x20009

Continued from Another Patch Today

While attempting to update Windows 10 to version 1703, I ran into problems.

“We couldn’t finish installing updates” And it would then tell me an update was available. MS Community responded to my questions:

“KB4034658 indicates you are on version 1607. The latest stable version of W10 is 1703 and the computer might be failing to install it. KB4034658  also has removed update history which had an evidence if the PC was failing to install the feature upgrade aka 1703.

Nevertheless, try updating manually to 1703″

I first downloaded the Win10 update assistant. This time I did not receive any errors, and it appeared to work. But after reboot the update was still not showing up as installed, and like before, an update option was available.

My next option was to do a repair/install, which I was hesitant about. I opened another thread confirming this would be a non-destructive windows install.  The community was extremely helpful. I downloaded the media creation tool, and burned the ISO to a DVD. Afterwards I ran “setup.exe” on the DVD.

I ran through the install and saw this error:
0x880070002 – 0x20009

“The installation failed in the SAFE_OS phase with an error during PREPARE_ROLLBACK operation”

This lead to a number of helpful google links. Several people had success removing all external drives and then reinstalling. I had several (5+) drives connected, including a label maker that shows up as a hard drive.

Ran the DVD again, and while the install appeared to work – on reboot I found the update had not been installed.

I ran a chkdsk, which was fine, and sfscan:

This was what i did when I ran my win7 to win10 upgrade. Even though everything verified without problems, this appeared to fix the issue.

I ran the DVD setup, and was excited to see new information this time, the welcome to win10 screen, along with a series of set up questions.

When I checked update history / and updates:

wo hoo! Checked for additional updates, found a few, run and restarted and ( I’ll admit I was a bit nervous I was stuck in another loop here… but… ) they installed properly.


good times! Now to clone ( again ) my main drive for a backup, and reattach all my drives.

 

 

 

Anethor Pathc Toesday with Mikrosoft Wankers 10 August 8, 2017—KB4034658 (OS Build 14393.1593)

Oh hey, my win10 install is stuck in an endless loop of installs. Windows support has been unresponsive for 2 days. Seriously, I used to be surprised that MS lost their dominance from the 90’s, sure as fuck not surprised anymore.

They fucking OWN us, yet manage to secure zero fucking loyalty for their shit products.

Bonus! New windows update deletes your update history!

RE256 Part II: The Searching Continues

Continued from Part 1

SCANLINES

Modern monitors have a much higher refresh rate than in the old days, by a factor of 10. What I needed was something that could handle 15hz ( or so – I didn’t know the exact refresh rate, since technical manuals are hard to find ). This is where I found a bunch of useful information from people who are into retrogames. If you are REALLY into old games like streetfighter for your NES you don’t roll with some shitty “modern” LCD/LED screen. You go oldschool CRT, where the scanlines are the luxurious background texture of your nostaglia fix.

edit: WTF happened to my re256 links! Maybe I deleted them all in a rage fit or something, but man. I’m really missing that folder right now

OK, so I basically need a 80s era monitor, or one of the specialized NEC Multisync monitors. ( cool, now I know why it said Multisync on the side of my monitors all those years ago ). I’m also competing with people who want to run their old AppleII and need a monitor. Some of those old CRTs are literally selling for $500+ on ebay.

Now, the time is ticking on my ability to return this thing… so I need to know if it even works beyond powering on. I hook up my oscilloscope hoping I can see something useful.

 

I don’t know why, but I was sort of hoping the CRT would just.. magically work and I’d see text. (It isn’t that easy… you can watch this video if interested in converting your oscope to a monitor..) Instead I get this. This is encouraging, since that looks like a waveform – though I have no idea wtf it means. However, the top looks like a TTL signal ( I think? )


and the rest seems like a composite video signal.

Not sure what to make of it… but at least the RE256 is putting out something on the video channel.

Well – shopping / hunting for old computer shit is my idea of fun, so I’m going to put this on slow burn and wait for a monitor to show up.

HOW TO USE THE RE256

So I’ve realized at this point that using this block of metal is going to be a challenge. The more I know about it, the better I can fix it, and how fucked up is that I’m trying to fix a piece of gear that I know next to nothing about, so I can then maybe learn how to use it. Why not just dump it? I wish I knew, and I wish I had. But at this point I have a fantasy in my head of fixing this, and having this awesome distortion analyzer and I’m like already a “RADIOMETER ELECTRONICS” fanboy. They are my BRAND motherfucker.

I’m hurting to recount this because I am missing a folder of 20+ solid links, including discussion of these products on audioforums. But one of the terrifying things I came across was this review of the 201 Audio Analyzer. I take that back there are several terrifying things going on here:

  • IEEE controlled interface, using a custom piece of hardware. RE901 Keyboard with 16 push buttons. This means I probably can’t just hook in some keyboard. I’ll need to find a way to send specific commands to the RE256. No idea if there is a command-line feature, but assume (! ) there is.
  • “The Tape test program does a comprehensive evaluation including.. ” Tape based? Fuck. Odds of acquiring original software just plummeted. There must be hard copies of that stuff somewhere though maybe in a manual
  • “The length of these programs give some idea of the time required to program the RE201 – the tape and tape recorder program consisting of 3229 lines of BASIC and the REPLOT program which simply allows plotting of functions occupies 2400 lines of BASIC”.. haha ha. yeah I’m completely fucked here. Even if I get this POS working, I’ll have nothing I can do with it.

Not Terrifying, but useful info gleaned:

  • Monitor is not RGB ( not surprising ) but rather TTL
  • RS232 interface for printing results
  • Overall a pretty bad-ass piece of machinery

BUYING SHIT

When you can’t do … buy! I think this is probably great advice for business acquisition or something. For me it means I can obsess about gear, instead of learning how to use it. Well I guess I’m buying this gear SO I can learn to use my other gear – but same basic shit. After another week or so of hunting I have acquired:

  • Manuals for the RE901 keyboard, the RE201, and some other RE audio gear. Some of them are programmable, so I hope that their chapters on IEEE interface will contain something useful.
  • Practically NIB IBM 5150 monitor. I probably should have just stuck with a smaller TTL security monitor or something, but this showed up on CL, and only had to drive an hour to get it. And I’m always hoping I can sell this shit at a later date. Plus, you know. It’s cool vintage computer shit. Oh it came with a keyboard – which are also in demand for gaming.

Cont…

update: August: no update. Monitor is sitting in a box in the garage. Listed keyboard for a stupid price online, just to see if anyone bites. I guess I could probably just check real quick to see if I get a signal from the RE256 on the Monitor. But you know – lots of other stuff going on.

 

 

Radiometer Electronics / RE: Technology / Confusing Dutch Company / Distortion Analyzer

This happened like a year ago, but I’m trying to get through my long ass list of projects. Most of them are small and trivial, and I hesitate to even post them here. Wow, you cut a cord, flipped the polarity and now your power supply is negative-center! Huzzah! I mean I was pretty proud of that, but yeah – not really “post worthy”.

Oh, but this one is.

So I like to pretend I’m learning about audio electronics. I read some stuff, try and pick out the gist of it.. sort of like reading an abstract of a paper instead of the whole thing. About 2 years ago I decided I want to build speakers, or repair amps, or some stupid shit. Why? dunno. But it seemed like a cool hobby, with lots of smart people, and I desperately want to be smart.

So while I bungle my way around an oscilloscope, and trying to trace circuits ( and failing mostly ) – I see this beauty on ebay: an RE:256 Distortion Analyzer. Distortion / Spectrum Analyzers aren’t really important for basic audio electronics – but past a certain point they matter a whole lot. And the good ones remain expensive – vintage HP’s are in the $500+ range. So when I saw this RE256 at like $150… I was excited. Now, do I need a distortion analyzer? well no. But it seemed like it would be great to have. For example, I could test the distortion on an amp, make some changes, and see if I had improved it or not.

Researching the re256 was not easy. I mean – look at the search terms here:

“RE”
“256”
“Distortion”
“Analyzer”

I seriously don’t know how I got my first break, but I came across an audio forum talking about the RE204 Distortion Analyzer, and how it was super well made, and awesome. Hard to find, and replacement parts were non-existent. I don’t know why, but it was like the hooks were in. Because if there is one thing better than owning a useful piece of equipment – it is owning a super rare, hard to find version. Well, you might say the latter impacts the former, and you’d be right! But the heart only knows what it wants. And I wanted it.

In my mind – the 256 was just a “better” version of the 204. I don’t know why I thought that – but sadly, it is a common mistake i make. So of course I bid, and of course I won – and of course things went down hill from there.

The Monitor

So when it showed up, I was excited – and immediately disappointed. See, other analyzer like the hp 8903 have a digital display on it.


I thought I saw one on the RE256. I was wrong. I also quickly realized there aren’t even any buttons on this fucking thing. It is just a big black box with some jacks on it. Well, no worries – I can plug in a monitor, and sure it needs an older 5pin keyboard, but no worries. I have adapters. Note the unrealistic optimism here, and the beginning of the Sunk Cost fallacy. This is an ongoing theme in my life, along with the “cut twice, forget to measure” thing. So I get my plugs and my monitors, and hook it all up, and nothing happens. No signal, etc. Now I’m not too worried, because I didn’t buy this “as-is” this fucking thing is supposed to work. So I must be making a mistake here. So I started on a quest for a user manual.

The Search

I also relish a good “search”. Fun to obsess about you know?:It took a while, but this is what I found out:

  • RE stands for “Radiometer Electronics” a dutch company. At some point it split in half with Audio on oneside, and medical tech on the other. The medical tech is still being made – the audio died out.
  • Parts are beyond impossible to find. There are a few replacement boards floating around on ebay – each priced $600+
  • Manuals are hard to find
  • I was able to find out some stuff about the RE204, and 500 series gear… but not much on the 256.

And then I had a breakthrough – look at this beauty.

Thank you “Test & Measurement World” magazine! Look at all that shit it does! I’m excited again. In a short period of time I realize I need

  • Vintage monitor
  • Vintage keyboard
  • Programming manuals

So one of the many twists here is that the RE256 is designed as an automated tester – like I read about the RE204 (link) there is programming done in BASIC ( woo! ). But I’m hoping I can find the actual programs out there somewhere. I set this in the back of my head as I race to Goodwill.. surely they will have what I need. I come back with an old keyboard, some adapters, but no monitor.

As I try and read up on what kind of monitor I will actually need – I fall into a deep deep rabbit hole.

Next time: Scanlines.

Freedom Ain’t Free

 

Our liberty and freedoms are practical, if not easy. We don’t always get what we want. We have to share a country with people who are different from ourselves in a million different ways. We share a country with people we love and also those we hate. It is easy to find the differences amongst us, and desire to cleave those people from the herd. But by refusing to do that, as frustrating as that might be, we make a very practical decision. It ensures that we get to remain in the herd as well. It isn’t fun, it isn’t easy. But it is necessary and practical.

If you find yourself thinking “they aren’t real Americans” – please take a step back and remember that to some of us – you aren’t a real American either.

And I include myself in that – I prefer my tribe to your tribe. And it is easy to believe that this country is my country.. and not yours.

Our president talks about unity while preaching divisiveness & bigotry, He feeds your fears about the other tribes, then claims to be the only one who can solve your problem. Those who criticize him are liars or losers. Those who are not loyal to him are exiled or threatened. No slight goes ignored. There is no truth but his truth, and he feels no remorse over lying.

“I play to people’s fantasies. People may not always think big themselves, but they can still get very excited by those who do… People want to believe that something is the biggest and the greatest and the most spectacular.”

He even has is own euphemism for this dishonesty – “Truthful Hyperbole”

These are the actions of a cult leader or a conman – not the leader of a free country. And certainly not a country that values the differences amongst its citizens.

 

BATTLE: KEF 105.4 SPEAKER GRILL! P1: PROTOTYPE

I’ve been looking for a set of 105.4 Grills for a while, but haven’t been able to find any. Due to recent family changes, having grills have gone from “nice to have” to “yeah let’s get that done”. I already have metal grills for the top two drivers, but do not have the grills for the bass drivers.
As you know the KEF 105.4 have an angled face which makes it a bit more of a challenge. Here is an example of how they should look:
index
Not only are they angled, but they are thicker at the top than at the bottom – which gives it a cool look IMO.

Here is my final!

img_4668 img_4672They aren’t perfect – The angles are a bit off on top, but overall they look pretty solid. note that I changed the design slightly to make them longer than the originals. I don’t like how many of these KEFs end up with discoloration from the grills. If that occured, I wanted it to be as uniform as possible.

I’m going to include a walk through of my steps as I build the prototype…
First I traced the outline of the speaker, then sketched in how I thought the grill should look. I measured the angles using a protractor, and used these angles for my first test cuts.

img_4124

I struggled to get the angles correct, but ended up going with 81.5 for the face that touches the speaker. For simplicity I decided to not try and force the front angle… however that turned out would be fine for the prototype.

img_4154

 81.5 degrees is a pretty close match. I used a mitre saw for these test cuts. The mitre saw however can’t cut longer pieces… so for this first piece I cut just the top / bottom, and used my other saw to connect the lines as best I could.
img_4189
The crossbar ( top and bottom of grill ) had to also be cut at an angle. I couldn’t be as precise with this, and used the bevel feature on my handsaw.
img_4196
You can see here how one face is cut at about 10 degrees and the other 5 degrees. Better to have it a bit too steep than not steep enough. If it is too steep the top of the crossbar will remain flush, and the rest of it won’t have good contact… but all that will be visible is the top edge, so that is ok. You can see this comes together ok:
img_4192
I should point out before going further: I made one modification to the usual design – I want my grills to go the full length. I often see older KEF’s with discoloration from the part of the speaker face that was not covered. I want to avoid that.
My next step is to glue the pieces together. This was a bit of a challenge since I need right angles like a picture frame… but the grill frame is right angles only in one dimension. I’m probably not explaining this well…
Here is the whole unit “clamped”…
img_4204
I’ll explain the weights in a moment. So while the grill has 90 degree angles on the x/y axis, it is not 90 degrees on the z axis like a picture frame or shelving might be. when I would fully clamp down, this would happen:
img_4197img_4201You can see how at the bottom the two pieces don’t meet up
And what I needed was this:
img_4202
So in the clamped photo above, I have loosened clamps on the top/bottom pieces so they can angle correctly against the concrete. This means the clamps no longer pull the left/right pieces together, so I use the weights to apply that pressure.
I then add on the extensions that will house the clips/pins and again glue.
img_4241
My next step is to drill the holes for the grill pegs. I ordered some pegs from ebay with these dimensions. They are not an exact fit, but the best I could find. They are maybe .5 MM too small in diameter. I contacted KEF a few times, but was not able to get any info about the original speaker pegs. By wrapping a bit of electrical tape around the peg, It becomes a snug fit. Since I don’t intend to remove these often ( for a few years at least ) this is an ok solution for now.

img_4254I used these screws to test my placement before drilling larger holes.

img_4261 img_4263 img_4264

 Accurate drilling was an issue – being off even by a MM means the frame will be angled slightly. The fact that the pegs had some looseness in the holes helped a bit and gave me some leeway, but I will need to address this for the finals.
img_4265 img_4267

I’m embarrassed to show the grill cloth wrapping – I did a really poor job, but just wanted to get something on to see how it looked :)

You can see a few problems I will need to address …
  • The grill isn’t sitting flush – two of the pegs snapped off – I drilled the pilot hole too small and really had to jam them in there. I think also my drilling being off by a MM or so in different directions put stress on them.
  • There is extra fabric mashed everywhere… This is the first time I’ve done this, so no worries – watched a tutorial on how to do it better. I had been hoping cream would look good.. I wanted to use a vintage grill texture … but I think I will go with black.
  • Better wood – the plywood veneer stripped heavily as I worked it. I will use solid pieces of wood for the finals.
  • Increased precision needed. For the wood pieces, I will re-measure each step… error on the side of too much wood, and sand down the extra MM or so needed for precise alignment. I am unsure how to handle the drill holes. A drill press would be ideal, but I do not have access to one. There are a number of hacks I will try on some scrap wood to see if I can get a good fit. Once I do, I will use that as a jig for the finals.
  • Glue + screws for final assembly.
  • Paint wood to hide it better behind the grill cloth
  • I would like to have curved edges to the peg mounts, but as long as they are hidden well, I won’t worry about it.

BATTLES:…STUFF ( Honda Element Condenser Fan Replacement )

Done some pretty handy stuff lately, but not so much posting. So just giving some highlights..

BATTLE FAN: INSTALLED! +10
BATTLE YARD: MOWED! +1
BATTLE RAT TRAP: DEAD RATS! +1
BATTLE SPRAY FOR ROACHES: GOOD JOB!
BATTLE ANTS: LOSING!
BATTLE KEEP CHILD ALIVE: YES +0 BECAUSE THAT IS YOUR FUCKING JOB
BATTLE LET ASSHOLE INSTALL PIRATED SOFTWARE ON YOUR MACHINE: FUCKING LOST

Two interesting things… I replaced a fan in my element. I used a mix of instructions from these sources:

http://www.elementownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=66272

I don’t want to repeat too much of what these videos cover, but these are worth noting:

    • Take off the splashguard. Removing the clips under the fan(s) is nearly impossible from the top. It takes an extra 10 minutes, but it worth it.Here is what those clips look like. Sorry for the crap video – iphone balanced on my chest while doing this.
    • Clips are confusing…

  • Relays and Fuses are not the same thing.I didn’t know this. When your condenser fan isn’t working – you need to troubleshoot the fan, but you also need to troubleshoot the fuse and the relay. The relay has two connections .. basically when electricity goes to 1 side, it connects the second circuit. You turn on the AC … the dial sends an electrical signal to the relay… the relay then connects the fan to power. Troubleshooting these is pretty easy actually.5986-05184996-1206152 IMG_4095-1200
  • Quit being an idiotIMG_4166

SCORE RECAP!

Time spent: 4+ hours  -20 points
Money Spent: $60 ( vs $300 ) +50 points mofo
Extra Screws: 1. -10 points
Broke Car: Negative. +10 points

Total: GO TEAM USA!

 

 

 

Garden Shade… Battle Rescheduled

Welp, that sure didn’t happen.

  • Can buy square for $10 at Home Depot. So fuck me for all that time I put in.
  • No time to build fancy shit before tomato season. As you can see these Tomatos are booming, and summer is beating down.

So we are going with our tried and true “green poles in ground” method. Nothing too fancy, but functional.

IMG_1080-1200 IMG_1081-12004 poles hammered into ground for each bed ( 7 ft poles, like $7 each ) . Twine tied between the poles. Hung shade cloth on the side that gets heavy afternoon sun, and birdcloth everywhere else.

IMG_1090-1200There was a gap on this side between the two beds, so I created a bit of a door with a 3rd piece of shade cloth. Note the old grommet style clips.. This year I did it a bit differently.

IMG_1091-1200In the past I used fancy grommet clip things.. this year I just used quick ties. gives me more flexibility, will be easy to clip off when I need to.I can also basically “sew” layers together so they are all fixed to the same point.

IMG_1092-1200

In the past, I’ve had trouble when the monsoons come through – the shade cloth turns into a giant fucking sail, and will often break the twine. This year I tied each piece of twine separately to the pole, so if one breaks, the whole thing doesn’t collapse.

I’ve clipped a lot of layers to other layers though… so I’m worried that it will make it even more sail-like.. we will see.

SCORE!

ZERO, it’s not a goddamn battle. I gave up, and stuck up the same shit I did last year. But here is the breakdown anyway.

Time spent: 2-3 hours, mostly at Lowe’s
Specialty tools needed: A post pounder thing really makes this a ton easier. I borrowed one.
Time wasted before I went back to tried and true method: 10+ hours
Overall quality of finished project: 7.3
S.O. Happiness Factor: Achieved

 

 

 

 

Garden Shade… preliminary scrimmage pt 1: The Square

raisedbedcover1

Well, it’s Sunday night, and I should either be working or sleeping. So instead I’m fucking off in the garage.

I need to put together some garden shade over some very lovely raised garden beds. In the past we just hammered in some poles, and strung wire between them. But this year, I thought, lets do something classy.

Requirements:

  • must fit dimensions of garden bed ( 4×8 ft )
  • must be taller than tomatoe plants ( ~5 feet )
  • Only to be used on some of the beds at any given time, due to crop rotation
  • Be nice to move / stack / take it down on off season. Failing that, be nice to have it look good without the Shade cloth on it

Internet searching shows a number of options.. most of them look pretty ghetto. The pic above seemed cool. Most of them look like this:

P1000343 ef478d586b4475ae1b8770bad59b00d0 tomato-trellis-3They use PVC pipe with electrical fittings. I don’t know why, but I fucking hate how these looks. The PVC just seems cheap, and I’m sure it will crack and break in the sun – looking like shit down the road. Also not a lot of options in terms of mobility.

So I’, going to use the initial image as inspiration – basically build something with a light wood frame, that can encircle each bed. It can have either a loose fitting garden shade over the top, or even have the shade stapled to the frame, if we want to keep out birds. Those little fuckers like our tomatoes.

Section A: Shit I can’t do right

coop-internal-frameAs you know, precision is not really my thing. And it seems to me, if I want to do this right, and not have it look like total shit, I’m going to need to build some frames that are actually square. My plan is to make 2 squares per box, for the endcaps, and then link them with 4 longer pieces. I might even have those 4 longer pieces bolt on, so if necessary, I can break these down in the off season. Looking at the picture above, it seems like i can use glue and nails, to create a decent square.

Section B: A Jig

I know from experience if I just try and glue and hammer some wood together, its going to be a failure. What I need is a guide.. a jig that I can just jam the wood into place, slap on glue, and have it be held there sturdy enough to drill the screws in.

The type of joint I’m making is a butt joint. It’s easy and pretty ghetto as far as joints go. It isn’t strong, but I’m hoping my structure will be ok. If needed I can add in some metal l-brackets.

There are a number of tutorials online about butt joints. I don’t remember any of them. What I remember is that I needed to make a jig. Something to make those right angles easy and accurate.

Section C: There’s a hole in the bucket

I’m tired from doing it, and don’t want to sit here writing about it. but basically, to make a jig that makes right angles, you need something that lets you cut at right angles. So I used my square to cobble this together:

IMG_0854

This acts as a guide for my hand held saw. See, here I mark what I want to cut, slide this against the wood, and then use it as a guide.
IMG_0856-800

cut cut cut

IMG_0857-800

I’m surprised that it works so well.

IMG_0859-800Don’t worry, that feeling wont last.

Now that I have some small wood sticks, I can start constructing my jig. My goal is to creating something like this.. where the green pieces are my garden shade frame. So I’m going to line the other pieces up, drill them into some MDF, and then whenever I need a right angle, I will just push the wood into here. easy.peasy.

IMG_0861-800Stuff happens. I measure and clamp and drill. The wood keeps moving and I need more clamps, which I dont have, and its sunday at like 2 am, but eventually it sort of happens. I get this:

IMG_0866-800 IMG_0867-800 IMG_0868-800 IMG_0870-800Not too bad! I think. I don’t know, its hard to tell if it works or not. So lets give it a run. I made these 2 inches thick, but my wood is only an inch thick. so I stack two of them for positioning.

IMG_0872-800

Drive in some screws

IMG_0873-800

Which sucks

IMG_0876-800I get new pieces of wood, and this time I drill pilot holes first. I was hoping to avoid that, just because of the additional time needed to swap out bits ever 2 screws.

But my angle looks good. I decide to try and build a mini frame right now. One problem I have is the jig is too large… I trim it down.

 

IMG_0878-800

And keep working my way around. it works ok, but I run into some issues. For example, all my boards weren’t the same size, and my jig is still too large for the last butt joint.
IMG_0882-800

So I trim it down, square it, clamp it, and drill.IMG_0884-800

Final product.. is well, it’s a rectangle. sort of? IMG_0885-800 I’m not sure how I feel about this. I spent a lot of hours to do this, and the more I think about it, I could probably just buy the fucking jig I needed. I’m afraid to google, because I can probably buy it at home depot.

But at least I know I can make a roughly square frame, which is probably good enough for the project.

And there is no such thing as “wasted time” when procrastinating on a Sunday night!

Score:

Cost: low.. $20?: 2 points
Time: shit. 2+ hours: -20
Made a square?: Sort of? +0
R&D: Can probably make a square: +20

OVERALL SCORE: +2!!! Things were made!